5 Mistakes you could make when painting furniture

By: Ken Rader the Furniture Rescuer There's no shortage of tutorials about painting furniture online. And I've used a lot of them to paint dressers, console tables, chairs, mirrors, and more. But I have found problems/issues with a lot of the tutorials—paint chips, finishes aren't smooth, and paint peels. I have had to redo several furnishings, so I decided to compile all the mistakes I've made to help you give your furnishings a makeover that will last. Here's how to paint a piece of furniture—without making a major mistake: 1. Sand it. There are lots of tutorials out there that claim you don't need to sand. There are also lots of primers and paints promising no sanding necessary. From what I have learned, sanding is a must. Sand all surfaces with 150-grit sandpaper. (I use this orbital sander with variable speeds.) Be careful not to gouge the surface. You're just looking to rough it up a little so the primer has something to adhere to; you're not trying to strip the surface. Use 80-grit if you are sanding a furnishing with an existing varnish. 2. Remove residue. Wipe down the surface with a tack cloth to remove any residue. Do not use a paper towel. Don't speculate on whether something is a lint-free cloth. Just use the tack cloth. We prefer to use TSP to clean all residue off. It works great and is a product made to make your surface paint ready.. 3. Prime it. If you're priming laminate furniture, use Zinsser B-I-N Shellac-based primer. Otherwise, use Zinsser Bulls-Eye 1-2-3 primer. Prime using a mini foam roller. We use products from General Finishes. Their Milk Paint, and Gel Stain can be applied on any surface WITHOUT PRIMING! Use a good quality brush. 4. Paint it. Use a good quality brush. Chalk Paint Supply companies offer some of the best brushes for painting furniture. General Finishes Milk Paint usually requires 2 coats. DO NOT SAND BETWEEN COATS ! Use a NEW tack cloth. The new tack cloth is very important here. You need to remove every speck of lint and dust before applying the Polycrylic in the next step. It's clear so everything shows. I've blamed everything from the dog to the paint for the tiny pieces of fuzz I've found when applying the Polycrylic, but it's because I didn't remove everything with the tack cloth.

Patena Green with Black on the top. 5. Protect it. Finally, apply a thin coat of Polycrylic water-based protectant in your choice of sheen. General Finishes makes Polycrylic topcoat in Gloss, Semi-gloss and Flat. You want to make sure you apply thin coats. 3 coats are recommended. General Finishes also makes a wonderful wipe on polyurethane gel. It is fantastic and so easy to use. No brush marks and produces a glass like finish. Once you use it you won't use any other product. We will be posting many more blogs about furniture refinishing. Don't be afraid. As Always "Happy Painting" Ken Rader Ken Rader Interiors- The Furniture Rescuers

BEHR Paint: How To Paint Interiors (Full Version)

Here are some great tips on painting and priming. Color choices and the right products to use.

We at 'Ken Rader Interiors L.L.C.' recommend and use Behr products.

Give us a call at 479-443-3686 and let us do your next paint project.

Visit our web site at http://www.kenraderinteriors.com

Enjoy the Video

Ken Rader Interiors Presents- Tips on how to paint.

Many good tips and solid training on how to paint. Ken Rader Interiors offers in home color consultation in Northwest Arkansas

Scraping off Popcorn style ceiling texture

How to remove Popcorn style ceiling Texture. By Ken Rader Owner: Ken Rader Interiors L.L.C. In the 1970's and 1980's a lot of homes were built and the ceilings were textured with popcorn style texture. Sometimes heavy and sometimes light. They even sprinkled a little glitter on some ceilings. Well here we are in the 21st century and that texture will not do. Out of date and no chance of coming back into style. IT HAS TO COME OFF! Here is a list of the tools you will need. 1. 6" putty knife (for scraping) 2. Small bucket or dust pan (to catch the scraped texture) 3. 30 gal. trash bags 4. Plastic film for covering up floor and anything else left in the room. 5. Step Ladder 6. Gloves 7. Masking tape and paper and a masking machine if you can afford it. (Cost about $50.00) 8. Safety glasses 9. Ball cap or hat to cover you head 10.Dust Mask. Everything about this job works against you because gravity is pulling everything down. To keep the mess to a minimum you will need to use the bucket or dust pan to catch the texture as you scrape it. 11. Pump up garden sprayer Begin by removing as much furniture and items from the room you are going to scrape the ceiling in. Whatever you cannot remove will have to be covered with plastic or a drop cloth. Fill up the sprayer with hot water and adjust the spray to a fan pattern, not a single stream. Wet down a section about 5' by 5' square. Wet it down two or three times since the texture will usually soak up the water. The wetter it is the easier it will scrape. Now take your bucket or dust pan and hold it under your scraper and scrape the texture off allowing it to fall into the bucket or dust pan. You will not catch all of it but whatever you catch is that much less on the floor. After a few scraping passes you will have to empty your bucket into the trash bag. Wet texture is heavy. Go at an even steady pace, no need to hurry. If the texture begins to dry out then wet it down again. Keep it wet because it will scrape easier. Once you do the first section then move on to another section. Sometimes ceilings have been painted and this makes it a little more difficult to scrape because the water will not soak into the texture because of the paint. It this is the case you will have to scrape in layers. First layer texture nibs, next layer some of the texture sheetrock mud, and finally the last of the texture from the sheetrock. Once this is done you will need to do some repairs from gouges and perhaps replace some sections of sheetrock tape. Then you will need to decide if you are going to texture the ceiling again or not before you paint it. You will almost always have to texture the ceiling again. The texture covered up a lot of mistakes in the original sheetrock job and all of them will be visible again. Most people will either texture the ceiling with orange peel or knockdown texture that matches what they have on the walls of their home. Here are some picture of a large room we just finished. Texture was removed, repairs made, Ceilings textured with a knock down and the wall textured with an orange peel. Paint was then sprayed on the ceiling and then rolled on the walls. Be patient and remember this is not a quick clean job. Most people will tire out quickly because you are working with your hands and arms above your head. So take a break every few minutes and keep the texture wet so that it will scrape easier. Have fun, call in a few favors for some extra manpower. Don't take any shortcuts and be thorough. If you leave gouges or do not make the repairs needed, a coat of paint will not make the go away. They will still be there only in a different color. If you put on a new texture it will usually not hide any problem areas that you should have fixed. We hope this information helps Happy Painting and Decorating Ken Rader Ken Rader Interiors L.L.C. Professional Painters and Decorators Serving Northwest Arkansas since 1987 Licensed and Insured visit our web site at www.kenraderinteriors.com or follow us on facebook at www.facebook.com/ken.rader.interiors

Ken Rader Interiors- Faux Paint Kitchen Cabinets.

Kitchen Cabinets up to Faux process. Kitchen Cabinets up to Faux process. IMG_1916 IMG_1917 IMG_1920 IMG_1923 IMG_1925 IMG_1931 IMG_1932 IMG_1933 IMG_1934 IMG_1935 IMG_1936 IMG_1937 IMG_1939How to update Kitchen Cabinets with a Faux Finish By Ken Rader- Painting Expert with Ken Rader Interiors L.L.C. A lot of work but the results are worth it! WHAT IS INVOLVED? This project will call for the updating of Kitchen Cabinets. Here are the steps that will be involved to transform them. 1. Masking off all of the counter tops, walls, floors, insides of some of the cabinets, ceilings and doorways. The homeowners wanted to save the paint job on the walls and ceilings, so extensive masking was called for. They had recently put in new wood floors in the Kitchen and extra care was taken to mask off the floor and use tape that would not harm the new finish, There are 4 doorways into the kitchen and these had to be masked off to prevent spray dust to filter into the rest of the house. 2. Clean the cabinets. This is a necessary step before you start to sand on them. We removed all of the doors, hinges, and drawers. These will be cleaned, sanded and finished at our shop. There was just no room either in the home or on the property to work on these items. 24 doors, 12 drawers. 3. Sand the cabinets. This is a 3 step process, First, sand with 120 grit paper, Second, sand with 220 grit, and third, wash the cabinets down with de-glosser also known as sanding liquid. 4. Prime the cabinets. The primer that we are using is "Glidden Gripper". This primer will stick to almost any surface. And since we are using Latex/Acrylic paint, this is an ideal primer. Dries quick, provides a stain blocker and gives a wonderful smooth hard finish. 5. Paint the cabinets. Color- Swiss Coffee We are using 'Behr Ultra Premium Plus" which is a primer and paint combination. This is a fairly heavy bodied paint and holds to the surface very well. It sets up pretty quick so it does not sag or run like some paints will. I like to put a lot of product on the surface and this is the paint to do it with. I am using my Graco ProShot II to do the spraying with. Wonderful tool and not as much overspray as there is with a conventional airless sprayer. There is a learning curve with this machine but once you master it you will always choose it for inside spraying. Also, most painters refuse to use Latex/Acrylic paint on cabinets. I think this is throwback to the time when Acrylic paint was not very good. Most use Lacquer because it is so forgiving, dries fast and the impression is that it is more durable and lasting. Lacquer begins to deteriorate from the moment it is applied. It is a 'Hot' topcoat so it will burn the product (Primer,Paint) It will grey or yellow unevenly as time goes by. Whites are no longer white. And as it ages the finish gets very hard and will chip and crack very easily. The Premium Latex/Acrylic paints on the market today usually carry a lifetime warranty against changing color or becoming so brittle that it will chip off. Remember though, all paint will chip if you hit it hard enough or use abrasive materials on it. 6. Glaze the cabinets. We are using our own glaze mixture with the color ' Melted Chocolate' mixed in the glaze. Get it in the grooves an corners heavy but then just light glazing and buffing on the flat surfaces. 7. Clear Coat the Cabinets. We will be using 'General Finishes- Polycrylic. This is a water base top coat that is extremely durable and will not yellow or change the color of the paint or glaze. Dries super fast, so you can put on 3 to 4 coats within a couple of hours. Super smooth, super hard and this product flows out like a factory finish. There are some pictures that show the process up to the point of glazing the cabinets Posted at (www.kenraderinteriors.wordpress.com). Same article but with pictures. The doors and drawers are at the shop and I will post some pictures of them as we progress with them. I will also post some pictures of the glazing and top coating of the cabinets. We will start glazing the cabinets Monday September 23,2013. Then we will start on the doors and drawers in our shop. I will post our progress. There are several ways that cabinets can be updated. They can be painted, faux finished or we can freshen them up with a stain toner. The application of stain toner produces a very good look and is very cost effective. The application of the stain toner will give the cabinets a new look. The color will be darker and very rich. For instance, if your cabinets are stained oak and are looking dated and tired. You can apply a toner in a rich mahogany, cherry,pecan, well any of a hundred stain colors. Then a protective clear coat is applied and the cabinets are ready to last another 20 years. This is a new process that we have just started. We are very pleased with the results and we are sure that you would love the new life it can give your cabinets. Thank you for viewing our blog. Please check out our web site at www.KenRaderInteriors.com, follow us on FACEBOOK, or have a look at our list of blogs all about painting, decorating, wallpapering, etc. we are sure you will find an article you will like. Lots and Lots of free advice and help for the do it yourself project. As always 'Happy Painting and Decorating'. Ken Rader Interiors L.L.C. Serving all of Northwest Arkansas Give us a call at 479-443-3686 or email us at ken@kenraderinteriors.com

Ken Rader Interiors- " How to stain your deck"!

11 Keys to Staining Your Deck Like A Pro How to stain a deck By Ken Rader of Ken Rader Interiors Painter and Decorators in Northwest Arkansas. Most decks have never been treated. They look so good when they are first built and new wood is not ready to be treated. So with the passing of time we get used to the way the deck looks . Having spent many years working with paints and stains, I've seen many homeowners who end up dissatisfied with their deck staining projects. Either it didn't look as good as they thought that would, or it didn't last as long. Following these steps will help guarantee a great looking, long-lasting result. NO SHORT CUTS! Step 1: Take your Time That's right, the first step is "take your time". With every step of the staining process, take your time. When the project is completed and your tools are cleaned and put away, nothing will have had a greater impact on the quality of the job. Here's a few tips before you get started. Take your time to allow new pressure treated lumber to weather for a few months and dry out before staining it. Allow stain strippers to be left on the surface long enough to break down old finishes before you rinse it off. Take your time to prevent overspray and spills on non-target surfaces and wait to start your project until the weather forecast is favorable. Step 2: Preparation, Preparation, Preparation 1-wood-cleaner-before As the picture above shows you will need to clean the wood and get rid of as much of the gray and black that you can. Preparation is key to the final results. All wood needs to be cleaned well before staining, whether it's a brand new deck, or an older deck that's been out in the weather and needs to be re-stained. Brand new lumber needs to be cleaned to remove "mill scale". Mill scale is a crushing of the grain that takes place during the milling process. If it's left un-cleaned, it can prevent wood stains from properly penetrating into the wood surface. On an older deck, dirt, graying from the sun, mildew and old stains all need to be removed prior to staining. Sodium Percarbonate wood cleaners, also known as oxygen bleach wood cleaners, are a great choice for this step. They are highly effective at cleaning the wood, yet won't harm plant life and vegetation. Best of all, they won't hurt you either. Their soapy consistency won't burn your skin. If there is a build up of old stains on the deck then the job gets a little tougher but not impossible. Instead of a sodium percarbonate cleaner you'll need to use a stain stripper. Strippers are a little more caustic so follow the directions carefully. They work great and will remove most weathered stains in a single application. Lastly, if there are small spots of stain that won't come off during the cleaning process, they should sand off easily using a palm-type sander after the deck has dried. If those spots of stain are left on the deck, they will show through the new finish and detract from the deck's final appearance. Some stain manufacturers offer a free instructional video to help walk you through this entire process. They're a terrific tool to use to ensure that you do it right the first time. Check out a sample deck staining video here. Step 3: Brighteners are Beautiful tbrite-before-afterIn the deck staining process, no step is skipped more than this one. It's by far the easiest step to do and it will have a dramatic effect on the final results. Wood brighteners are easy to apply. They help open up the surface of the wood to improve penetration, neutralize any stain strippers that were used, and restore the appearance of old, weathered wood to like new again. That's a lot of things for one product to accomplish, but brighteners will do all of that so don't skip using them . To use them, simply spray them on, wait a few minutes, and rinse them off. No scrubbing, and no "elbow grease" needed. There are so many benefits and they're so easy, there's no reason to not use them! Step 4: Rinse like Mad Use lots and lots of water after using any cleaning chemicals. Even though some of these chemicals can seem safe and harmless, they all need to be rinsed off extremely well after they are used. Left in the wood, these chemicals can resurface over time and begin to attack and break down the new stain. So once you are done cleaning, rinse the deck thoroughly to get all of the chemicals out of the wood. Step 5: Stay Away from the Cheap Stuff Now that the deck is clean and dry, it's ready to be stained. Before you decide which stain to buy, keep in mind that you always get what you pay for. Better ingredients cost more money. If you expect premium results then you'll need to buy a premium product. There is a difference in quality when it comes to resins, pigments, mildewcides and many other materials that make up a gallon of wood stain. So stay away from the cheap stuff if you expect it to last. Step 6: Take a Look at Waterborne Stains Water based deck stains have become really popular in the last few years. If you have been reluctant to try them in the past, don't be reluctant any longer. Air quality regulations have forced manufacturers to really improve these products some are now better, more durable and longer lasting than conventional oil-based alternatives. They offer some distinct advantages to the user that oil base stains can't offer. Good quality water based stains clean up with soap and water, there are no nasty solvents to breathe, they have a significantly better resistance to weathering, the wood doesn't need to be completely dry to use them, they dry more quickly than solvents and they are much easier on the environment. Additionally, some of the waterborne stains are synthetic as well. Synthetic resin wood stains are far less susceptible to mold growth, mildew and algae. So if you're in area with a fair amount of moisture and humidity, there are some real advantages in waterborne synthetic stains. Step 7: Read the Can...Follow the Directions Every product is a little different so always read the label for directions. It only takes a few minutes and it will ensure that you have all of the right information before you get started. Pay attention to how many coats of stain to apply, how long to wait between coats, how long to wait after cleaning and how long to allow wood to weather. So read the label first and you're likely to get it right the first time. Step 8: More IS NOT always Better Decks are best stained with a semi-transparent wood stain. These types of products allow the natural grain of the wood to show through, allow the wood to naturally breathe, and are easily cleaned and reapplied. Pay attention to the directions and don't over apply these types of products. You'll end up with a beautiful, shiny finish that will probably peel off over time. When too much stained is applied a film can form, much like paint, that will no longer allow the wood to breathe. When this happens the end result will be peeling and that's a real mess. So only apply as much stain as the wood can easily absorb. Step 9: The Paint Brush is Still King There are a lot of different ways to apply the deck stain. Using a pump-up garden sprayer and roller are two popular methods. Regardless of how you apply your wood stain, keep a paint brush at hand. A paint brush will work the stain deep in to the pores of a board. The agitation and friction caused by a paint brush will cause the wood to absorb more stain. So if you are spraying or rolling the stain, always back-brush it in with a brush while the stain is still wet and you'll achieve much better penetration in to the wood. Watch the short video clip below for the best type of brush to use. Step 10: Remember...Take Your Time I told you at the start of this article to take your time. When your project is finally done, take a little extra time before you start using it. Let your deck dry out good before putting it back in use. The stain needs to cure out a bit before being subjected to the rigors of patio furniture and foot traffic. You've done everything right to this point, now make sure you allow it at least 24 hours to dry out before using it. Step 11: How about a Little Maintenance A small amount of effort can keep your deck looking great longer. Just as you would wash the dirt off of your car, wash down the surface of your deck every now and then to keep leaves and dirt from damaging the finish. If the deck stain starts to show signs of graying or loses its color, it can be easily cleaned up with a little wood brightener and a light maintenance coat of stain. That's it, that's all there is to it. Eleven keys to deck staining success. Go ahead and try them and see what the results are when you set out on your next project to do it like a pro. You may just surprise yourself! *Helpful Tips When using a wood cleaner, you can really speed the process up by using a scrub brush on the horizontal boards. These brushes can be found in the cleaning section of most home improvement stores. Get the type that can be attached to a 4 foot extension pole. With a scrub brush, cleaning the surface of the deck will be as fast as mopping your floor! When staining the deck rails take care not to splatter stain on the deck surface below as it will most likely leave unsightly darker spots when you are done. The easiest way to avoid this problem is to cover the deck below the rails as you work. I use the cardboard from the box the stain came in. You can cut out notches in the cardboard so it will fit snugly around the rail posts. ~ Hope this helps and inspires you to stain or treat you deck. It is really easy and make a big impact on the overall look of your home. Visit our web site at www.kenraderinteriors.com Ken Rader Interiors- Painters and Decorators in Northwest Arkansas As always " Happy Painting and Decorating."

Painters in Northwest Arkansas- Ken Rader Interiors-"What is the latest HOT COLOR!

BROWN? YES BROWN! By Ken Rader Ken Rader Interiors, Painters and Decorators in Northwest Arkansas. Brown Living Room Paint Design Ideas | Photos Pictures Galleries and ...Matching Colors With Walls And Furniture Brown Paint Colors | Home Design Ideas Brown has something for everyone! It can be benign, friendly, versatile and totally up to date. How can you not love brown? What do you think of when brown is mentioned? Milk Chocolate, a Brown Dog, Mother Earth? Brown is not a threatening color and it can balance out almost any color. With the right brown you can make an environment feel stable or well grounded. This ability is the reason that brown can be seen on many historical buildings. It has stood the test of time. You will find a combination of browns, beige and whites. Some have described brown as friendly. Keep it brown, but add some red-tones and create a southwest look. Or add Terra Cotta or Brushed Clay and it appears warm. Even the addition of Black can warm up the look as apposed to White. It is very versatile! Browns can be great neutrals that when paired with other colors, can really make them POP! Oranges, Yellows, Reds and Greens all work wonderfully with brown. Think about pairing brown with Salmon, Slate, Bayberry Green, Sea Green or pick up a piece of drift wood and choose one of the grays that you see in the wood. Brown and Blue can also be a great combo, for instance Chocolate Brown looks fabulous with Federal Blue. But then what about Snow White, or Pitch Black or Barn Red or Marigold Yellow,all winners. The hit color for the beginning of 2013 was Gray. It is still very popular as the year has continued but Brown is appearing with Gray and is gaining in popularity so perhaps it will be the "Top Brown Dog". Wood tones are always popular and people are falling in love with dark wood stains again. I have painted over a lot of cabinets that were stained and it looked like dark stained wood was on the way out. However, it is gaining momentum and a renewed interest. I painted the outside of my house last fall "Espresso". The house is cedar sided and it was looking pretty worn out. I live in country and the color fits in wonderfully. I have also painted several sets of Kitchen Cabinets this year and guess what color the customer is choosing? Brown! I also bought a new laptop computer and it is Brown. So if you are not on board with brown, maybe you should be. It is the latest "Hot" color and will stay around for quite a while. As Always " Happy Painting and Decorating" Check out our web site www.kenraderinteriors.com Follow us on Facebook www.facebook.com/ken.rader.interiors We have been painting and decorating in Northwest Arkansas since 1987. If you live in the area and have a painting projects, give us a call (479)443-3686